Adopting Druzhina Siberian Kitten

Adopting a Kitten

We are a small, home based, hobby breeder and only have a few litters a year, so will only have kittens available occasionally throughout the year. We assume that if you are reading this page then you are considering adopting a Siberian kitten and have done some research into the breed already.

Adopting a kitten is a lifelong commitment and not to be taken lightly. I am a responsible breeder and will only place kittens with responsible pet owners who have researched the breed and are willing to take lifelong responsibility of the kitten.

All new prospective kitten owners normally go on a waiting list before being sold a kitten. We will not sell a kitten to anyone wanting to buy now on a whim that is not prepared to wait. These types of people have generally not thought things through and often don't care much about the cats or where they come from. Having a deposit only waiting list helps us determine how many homes are available for our kittens before breeding our cats. I do not like to breed if there are no potential homes waiting as I feel this is irresponsible.

I believe responsible pet owners will want to try and locate the best breeders who will try and match them with the most appropriate kitten for their lifestyle and needs. Finding the right kitten can take some time. I myself did this when getting my first Siberian. After speaking to a few breeders I found a lovely breeder I felt comfortable with whom I thought I could trust. I waited over a year for him as I did not want to go anywhere else. It is very important that you go to a breeder you can trust as this person will then be able to offer lifelong advice and support for you and your kitten.

We like to get to know new kitten owners before we agree to sell them a kitten, so please don't be offended if we ask questions. All our kittens are precious to us and we want to ensure that they are going to good homes just like you want to ensure you are getting a kitten from a reputable breeder. You can feel free to ask us as many questions as you like. We are happy to answer all questions and will be honest with you as we have nothing to hide and are very proud of our high standard of breeding.

Siberians are still a relatively new breed in the U.K and there may not be any breeders in your area. If you want to adopt a kitten you should base your choice of breeder on their breeding practice, quality and health of their cats and not just on locality.

In order to be able to recognise a good breeder when you come across one you need to do your research (read further for more information on this) and also go with your instincts.

Why choose a Druzhina Siberian?

Here at this cattery I consider myself to breed responsibly. My main aim is to breed for health and temperament as well as show success. I only have a few litters per year and breed from healthy, genetically diverse cats to reduce the risks associated with inbreeding.

Having only few litters a year means I can give my full attention to each kitten in the litter as well as mum. It also reduces the spread of infections should they occur. I breed all litters lovingly indoors. I weigh the babies daily to ensure they are gaining a healthy amount of weight and will check them over for common health/congenital problems.

If any of the kittens are not gaining weight through lack of feeding as sometimes happens in a big litter, I will supplement their feeding myself with kitten formula. They are handled from birth and socialised to all household noises especially during the "sensitive period" to ensure they develop into well adjusted kittens that will fit well into most homes. Mum and babies are fed on "super premium" quality kitten food and given all the necessary preventative healthcare.

I am a registered veterinary nurse aswell as a registered breeder with TICA and abide by their breeder code of ethics (see about us page to view this code). I am also a member of the Siberian cat club which is affiliated to GCCF. All kittens are registered even if sold as pets. Not every breeder will do this, but I feel if you are paying for a pedigree then that's what you should get. Without this you cannot be sure you are getting a 100% purebred Siberian and technically without it a breeder cannot say they are selling pedigree cats. Please ask to see proof of registration before buying your kitten. I am also a registered veterinary nurse and have been working with animals for over 14 years. I have a lot of veterinary knowledge as well as breed knowledge. I am also currently studying for a diploma in feline nursing which will help in my everyday job and also improve my knowledge as a breeder. I have been breeding pedigree Siberian cats since 2008. I work closely with other established breeders who have been breeding for many years.

I also show my cats occassionally and enjoy meeting other breeders as well as seeing lots of beautiful cats. I offer lifelong healthcare/breed advice to all new owners should they have any concerns and feel in a very fortunate position to help due to my veterinary background. I have been working with some of my cats lines from the start and am able to monitor the lines for hereditary illness. Having done some matings before gives me an idea of how my kittens will turn out in temper as well as health and type.

All my breeding queens live indoors as part of the family and have access to fresh air via a purpose built enclosure. They have the best veterinary care and are health checked and vaccinated annually for various diseases before mating. My males have high end cattery accommodation which is washable and each run has sneeze barriers to prevent any spread of infection should it occur. I am a closed cattery meaning I do not allow other peoples cats to come for matings. This helps ensure the safety and good health of my cats which is of upmost importance.

All new kitten owners are given in depth care advice and lifelong support when adopting a druzhina kitten. I like to ensure they have a good home and the necessary support when they leave. I enjoy getting updates from owners and seeing how my babies have grown.

How are Druzhina babies raised?

All our babies are born in my bedroom where mum will spend her last couple of weeks of pregnancy. They are kept away from other animals for the first few weeks of life. As soon as they are born and mum has done all she needs to do they are checked over by myself for any congenital/hereditary defects and weighed.

If all is fine then they will settle down with mum to nurse. Their environment is kept very warm for the first few weeks as they cannot regulate their own body temperature at first. The nesting area is cleaned daily and mums food and water placed near the kittening box so she can feed yet still be close to the kittens. Mum is monitored closely after the birth and her temperature taken regularly to ensure she does not develop any infections from the birth. I weigh the kittens daily and keep a log for all my kittens from each litter. This helps me notice any potential problems early on so they can be rectified if need be. It is also good to keep a log of past litters so you can properly manage your future breeding programs.

The kittens are handled daily and get used to various noises from the TV, radio, washing machine etc. I have a range of different noises on cd which I play to the kittens from a young age. I also take pictures and videos to send to new kitten owners as I like to keep them updated. Socialising kittens is best done in the sensitive period which is between 3-7 weeks ideally. They start weaning around 4 weeks when I will introduce them to kitten milk formula which they normally start lapping well. Once happy with this I will then start mixing small amounts of high quality wet kitten food into the milk to make a slop. This can be very messy at first as they tend to walk in it and if you are not careful mum will eat it and leave nothing for the kittens. Eventually I will introduce dry kitten food as well as I like to get them accustomed to different tastes and textures so that they do not become fixated on one particular food.

They also start to show an interest in using a litter tray around 4 weeks so a shallow tray is provided which contains a safe litter that won't cause harm if ingested. All kittens love to investigate with their mouths and will quite often eat litter; this is not normally an issue but care is needed. They are wormed regularly and have their vaccines at 9 and 12 weeks. I will carry on with socialising them and like to get them used to being handled for examination as well as lots of cuddles.

They normally come down stairs properly around 8 weeks of age but will spend parts of the day down stairs from as early as 5 weeks. I normally move them around 6 weeks to a kitten nursery which is a spare bedroom with climbing frames and more room to play. This is a transition period for them to become fully toilet trained before moving down stairs around 8-9 weeks.

They are introduced to various people of different ages and other animals i.e. cats, dogs, rabbits and even to the outdoors but only in my arms. They leave here calm, well adjusted kittens ready to cope with anything. Many owners comment on how quickly they settle, this is down to proper socialisation whilst with the breeder. In fact some are that relaxed that I have to warn people how cheeky and playful they will be as soon as they get them home. It will be like they have had the kitten all its life!

What do I look for in a responsible breeder?

A responsible breeder should be registered with a pedigree cat registry like TICA, FIFE or GCCF. (See about us page and click on "registered breeder" for an explanation of this). You should ask to see these documents and also their cats pedigrees. Ideally they should also be a member of at least one breed club. Please note that being registered does not always mean reputable. I have unfortunately come across some who behave very irresponsibly and do not have the animals best interests at heart. You need to consider a lot of things before making your decision; this will be discussed more below.

All their cats and kittens should be registered and you should ask to see the parent's documents.

Ideally they will have tested all their breeding cats for common health problems in the breed if a reliable test is available and should have proof of this. They should only be breeding from healthy cats free of hereditary/congenital defects once a year. Sometimes if a cat is a prolific caller a breeder may have to mate them inside the 12 month period for health reasons. As long as it is within registry guidelines (which normally equates to 1 litter every 9 months) and the queen is in good enough health this is not an issue.

Ideally all matings should be from unrelated cats. You can check this by looking at the pedigree of the kitten or parents. If any cats appear in both pedigrees early on then there has been inbreeding.

A lot of pedigrees if you go back far enough will have at least one name duplicated on both sides at some point. This is not normally a problem but if it is happening early on (i.e. first three generations) then the level of inbreeding will be fairly high. Some do this and I think it is wrong. Inbreeding like this over time will produce immunologically weak kittens prone to illness especially if the parents are also highly inbred.

It can also result in health problems that may not show up till later in the kitten's life, due to recessive genes that both parents may be carrying. These recessive genes for some health problems may not be apparent in the parents, but are more likely to show up in the kittens should you breed two cats with similar parentage together who both carry the defective genes.

They should not sell kittens before 13 weeks of age, they should have had the full course of core vaccines and you should get a veterinary certificate to verify this.

They should provide you with a kitten pack which at the very least contains samples of the food they are on and a diet sheet. Only buy from a breeder who will give you papers and make you sign a sales contract. You should also get some form of health guarantee for at least the first few days in their new home. They will also strongly advise you have a health check carried out by your own vet on arrival home.

Their condition of sale for pets should be neutering before sexual maturity and will not release papers until proof from your vet has been provided. Some now early neuter like myself which means papers can be given on the day of adoption and there is no worry of having to take your cat to the vet for neutering or an accidental mating occurring.

A good breeder will be contactable and offer lifelong advice for your kitten should you need it. They will also insist on the cat being returned to them should you no longer be able to look after it or have a suitable family member to adopt them. They will show a keen interest in their kitten's welfare and stay in touch with all new owners. Never buy from newspapers or online adverts from unregistered breeders without a website or if they are breeding in a way that is of detriment to the cats and kittens. A lot of these people are in it for the money and won't want to spend money producing a website. They should be interested in where the kitten is going and the type of home you are going to provide. They may also be breeding the females back to back with no break and keeping them in poor conditions. Do you really want a kitten from an environment like that? They may charge less but it will show in the long run.

If they don't ask questions about you then they probably don't care and just want a quick sale. Be wary of people selling cheap kittens, they may not be full pedigrees or come with problems (see section on 'what you are paying for') further on for more information. Get recommendations from other breeders, owners or breed clubs. They will often have breeders listed on their site. Speak to breeders over the phone and choose someone who is friendly, knowledgeable and that you feel comfortable with.

They should be willing to answer all questions and have nothing to hide. Always go to the cattery and see the parents. Sometimes you may not be able to see the father as not all breeders have stud cats but you should still be able to see the mother and the environment she lives in. Never let a breeder offer to bring the kitten to you without having seen where it is being raised.

The cats should be relaxed in a home environment and not caged. It should look and smell clean. Cats should be free from any discharge around eyes, nose, anal area and should not be sneezing or coughing. They should have a good coat free from parasites and be a healthy weight. Be wary of large catteries selling a lot of different breeds, these are no more than 'kitten farms' designed to mass produce cats for monetary gain.

Kittens from this type of place will generally be sick if not when you buy them then later in life and may have congenital/hereditary deformities. They may have behavioural issues and be unable to cope with family life due to lack of socialisation and handling from a young age. I have seen a lot of young animals come from these types of places and it really angers me that they are allowed to get away with it.

But what is more annoying is that people buying from them do not realise or buy because they feel sorry for the animal. It is only by refusing to buy from them that they will be forced to stop. Never buy a kitten because you feel sorry for it. Your kitten should be raised indoors and socialised, not bred outside in a cattery. These types of kittens do not make great pets.

A good breeder will not just sell cats to anyone for breeding if they do not have experience. Go to a cat show as a lot of good breeders also show and it is a good place to get to know different breeds before making your final decision.

Breeders that show will generally only breed from high quality cats that are healthy. Although just because a breeder shows it does not automatically mean they behave responsibly in other areas, so be careful. If you are wanting to show or breed you should ideally approach breeders whose cats have titles i.e. Champion or higher.

What am I paying for when buying a Druzhina baby?

Well most importantly you are paying for a cute, healthy, bundle of fluff that will bring years of fun and laughter into your home. My cats come from excellent pedigree lines and have titled pure bred Siberian cats in their pedigrees. Being a new breed, most of the cats in the U.K have been imported from abroad. It costs a lot of money to do this. I imported by first breeding cats from America in 2011. I have had to pay a lot of money for my breeding cats, hence this cost is reflected in the price of a kitten.

You are also getting all of the previous things mentioned from a responsible breeder. A pet kitten will cost you £700-£1000 depending on the breeder and what they do before sale i.e neuter, microchip or just vaccines. Some people may say why are you charging so much when I have seen adverts in the paper/internet for Siberians costing £300? Well I can guarantee you won't be getting all of the following for that price and you will probably be getting a kitten that is a lot younger than 13 weeks. Too young to be leaving its mother

Also if they are not registered then you could be getting a very expensive longhaired moggy!

Each kitten I sell will have had:

  • Full core vaccination at 9 and 12 weeks
  • Registration with TICA and a 5 generation pedigree (proof that they are purebred)
  • Regular worm and flea treatment with prescription products
  • Microchipping
  • Super premium kitten food whilst with us
  • Cat Litter plus the training before leaving so no accidents in the new home
  • Socialisation in a home environment with people and other animals
  • Kitten pack with lots of goodies (see below)
  • Detailed care pack written by myself
  • 2 vet checks at vaccination time before leaving us
  • A 7 day health guarantee
  • Kitten contract of care
  • Lifelong advice on all aspects of cat care, behaviour and breed advice from a caring breeder who doesnít just abandon you once you hand over your cash
  • Free re-homing of your cat should you no longer be able to care for them
  • Most importantly lots of love, cuddles and kisses

When you purchase a kitten from a back street breeder on the cheap the chances are you will not get all of the above and it probably won't be vaccinated. It won't be getting fed quality food, worming etc and may even be sick. A lot are sold far too young when they should still be with mum (i.e before 12 weeks). Immune systems of young kittens under 12 weeks are less able to cope with the stress of leaving mum and re-homing, making them more prone to illness. They also wont have had their vaccinations making them more susceptible to viruses. 8-12 wks is the time they learn manors and how to behave around people. They may look cute being very small but getting one at a very young age will be of detriment to the kitten later in life trust me.

These people won't be giving you health guarantees or making you sign a contract. They probably will not have much knowledge about breeding. They won't want to help if you need advice, your cat gets sick or if the cat needs re-homing. So, what was initially a kitten costing £700 can quickly turn into £1000+. (That's not including any further visits to the vet for illness). Whilst I or any other breeder cannot 100% guarantee your kitten will not get sick later in life, we have done our upmost to ensure they are healthy when they leave us and for a long time to come.

You will get a signed vaccination card to say they have had a health check and vaccines. I only sell healthy kittens and will offer a replacement should something happen in the first 7 days.

What does the Kitten pack contain?

You will get a free kitten pack containing most of the items you will need to help your kitten settle in. This includes:

  • 2 weeks supply of super premium kitten food
  • Detailed feeding guide
  • kitten care guide written by myself and various information leaflets on products I recommend
  • Veterinary strength flea and worming treatments
  • Kitten safe cat litter
  • CD containing pictures of your kittens parents and the kittens development, registration and five generation pedigree.
  • Blanket with mums scent on it to help kitten settle in their new home
  • Various toys
  • Microchip details
  • Vaccination record card
  • Travel size Feliway spray to help your kitten on the journey home and feel secure in their new home

How do I adopt a Siberian kitten from Druzhina?

To be able to adopt one of our future kittens I firstly need you do read this site (especially the kitten contract (link at end of page) and adoption process/waiting list rules. If you are happy with these points and feel you can offer a loving lifelong home please email me with the following information:

  • Why you want a Siberian
  • If you have any experience of the breed or owning cats
  • Your home and work situation
  • Do you have any children or other pets?
  • If you have another cat please ensure the cat is up to date with vaccinations including feline leukaemia (received them in the last 12 months) and has been tested negative for viruses like felv/fiv before contacting me
  • Are there any people in the home with cat allergies?
  • If you intend on your cat going outside
  • If you are wanting a pet or to breed or show
  • Your kitten requirements i.e. sex, colour and number of kittens wanted
  • Any other information you feel I should know
  • Please also inform me that you have read the adoption contract and adoption/waiting list information in your email.

I am happy to chat on the phone should you prefer this but I do need a written log in email form of the above if wanting to join the wait list so please be aware of this should you phone first. Providing we are both happy with the information given you will then be offered an opportunity to join the waiting list.

How to join our Waiting list

We have a deposit only waiting list for future owners. To join this list you need to have provided the above information and have been accepted. You will then need to send £100 non-refundable deposit to secure a place. Our waiting lists do fill up quickly and we operate on a first come first serve basis. We generally donít have many kittens available off list so this is the only way to ensure you get a choice in kitten adoptions from us. The people at the top of the list will get first choice. Once we are happy that you will provide a suitable home for one of our babies and the fee has been received we will add you on to our waiting list. We will let you know when a litter is born and the various colours and sex of the kittens. All updates will also be on our blog.

The reason we ask for a deposit is to try and reduce the number of time wasters we have had on our waiting list in the past. Due to the fact we only breed for demand it is important that we have homes ready for our kittens. Joining a waiting list shows you are committed and willing to wait for the right kitten. I do not want people joining who want a kitten quick and are not prepared to wait. The decision should be based on how you feel about the breeder and their breeding practice not which breeder has kittens available first. Please remember to produce a litter from start to finish it takes 5 months so it is not something that can be rushed. This is not a warehouse were we have kittens stock piled ready for selection. Itís all about quality not quantity here with us. Please take a look at past kittens and also the bottom of the blog as there are many different colours of Siberian shown there (all of which have been bred here at Druzhina Siberians)

You will be kept undated on progress and kittens will be offered for reservation between 4-8 weeks. We try and match kittens temperaments with suitable homes but this can be difficult to do at such a young age. Kittens change so much but we will always try and advise. Most of our kittens are suitable for most home settings so this is not normally a problem.

Once you have chosen your kitten you will need to reserve them with a further £100 non-refundable reservation fee. This enables us to hold them for you and not accept any more home offers. You will be informed of their progress and allowed to collect the kitten all being well between 12-14 weeks old. People on the waiting list have the right to refuse a kitten and wait for the next litter but we would expect people to choose a kitten within 12 months as we cannot keep you on the list indefinitely.

Once they are old enough (usually 8 weeks at the earliest) we will allow you to come and visit your kitten. Generally people choose their kittens from pictures and advice from me on temperament. I cannot allow visits before 8 weeks for hygiene reasons and so it is not always suitable to choose your kitten in person as this will cause hold ups for people below you on the list whilst you wait for them to reach 8 weeks. If you are unsure the best I can offer is to potentially hold a couple of kittens back until you can see them in person but this is an exception not the rule. Every owner has been happy with this procedure and got a kitten that fitted well into their home. We sell a lot of kittens to people hundreds of miles away and whilst we like to meet you before collection we also understand this is not always possible so for this reason it is not a requirement to visit before adoption.

Breed and show owners will be offered pick of the litter over pet owners. This is because we want our best kittens to go on and contribute to the overall standard/quality of the breed. Pet kittens are in no way unhealthy, they just may be lacking in certain points when measured against the breed standard that makes them unsuitable for breeding/showing. Please be aware that I retain the right to keep any kitten I feel has potential to further my own breeding program. The waiting list will be told which kittens are available as pets. Sometimes I may need to hold a couple of kittens back until an older age before I can decide if they are breed quality. I do not do this often.

We rarely sell cats for breeding and a lot of our pet kittens are of a good enough standard for breeding. We would rather they went to a good pet home than to a breeding home where they may get abused. If you are wanting to breed or show please make this known on your initial application so we can help you choose a suitable kitten. Please note breed and show cats do cost more than pet kittens. You must be a registered breeder with similar ethics to mine and if new to breeding be willing to be mentored by myself for the first few litters you produce. (Please contact me for more information on this).

Rules re waiting list and adoption Process

No refund of waiting list or reservation fees will be given should the new owner decide to leave the list for whatever reason. You should only join if you are prepared to wait. If your reserved kitten is found to be ill before adoption takes place a replacement kitten will be offered should you not want to wait for your chosen kitten to get better. No refund will be given. This does however depend on the nature of the illness. We cannot guarantee one from the same litter. If it is something permanent then this will be discussed with you before adoption and dealt with accordingly. Please note we do not let kittens go until we are happy they are healthy enough to leave us. We retain the right to hold your kitten alittle longer should there be any issues after vaccination or neutering. This is done with the kittens best interests at heart. In certain circumstances i.e. if wanting a specific colour, sex or a breeding cat you may have to wait up to 12 months for a suitable kitten. I will only offer a refund if I cannot supply the kitten of your choice after a 12 month period or I have to stop breeding for a certain length of time. If I offer you kittens I believe to fit your requirements and you repeatedly refuse them without good reason then a refund will not be given. I reserve the right at any time to remove you from the adoption process if I am not happy with your behaviour. In this case a refund will be given providing I can find a suitable home before 14 weeks of age for any kitten you may have reserved. If the kitten you reserved cannot be found another home by this age care fees will be taken off what you have paid and you will only receive back the balance that is left once the kitten is sold. Sometimes I may have to reduce the selling price to find a home for an older kitten and this will further reduce any refund you will get. Please read adoption contract for further information. This is just a generalisation and sometimes I will make exceptions but this is at my discretion.

Unfortunately we cannot deliver or ship kittens so you will be required to collect your kitten as arranged by appointment. You can view our kitten contract by clicking on the bold text. This must be signed before a sale is finalised. We will contact you once we have some basic information about you. Look forward to hearing from you.

All pet kittens are neutered before going to new homes. No exceptions unless on health grounds. I am happy to discuss any concerns you may have around early neutering. This is done to prevent unscrupulous people getting hold of my kittens under false pretences to breed from them unregistered. For those pet owners who feel a female should have one litter in order to develop fully there is no scientific data to back any such theory and I do not support such claims. In the wrong hands this attitude can cause mother and babies a lot of harm and adds to the pet overpopulation problem.

Max
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